@
You want to keep your hard earned Cool Air close to the floor so the Hot Air up at the Ceiling doesn't kill it. Let the Cool Air rise on it's own, Thus slowly cooling the whole room. * Add Tubeing see below bottom of page.
With small exit 'Air Hockey' holes Hot Air can't get back in to your Unit, and your air swirls in the Units longer to get cooler.
You don't want the Warm Air just rushing through The Pre-Cooler into the Main, so closing down the Valve first lets it get cooler by swirling it around before it goes into the Main.
Dead air space in Coolers hurts Ice so they need to be mostly full. The Racks! *Or Flat Ice Packs.
Another Trick Is is to Pre-Cool the Coolers first.
Follow the Bouncing Ball ... Warm Air > Cool Air > Cold Air.
Floor
Here is TheTurbro Fan
@ @ @ @ @ @
VALVE
V
(PVC Tubes to other ROOMS)
@
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
@
COLD AIR
Small Drilled Holes (Down)
Frozen Penneys
Main
...............
Warm Air >>>
.............
Open Close Valve
V
Frozen Copper Pipes
Flat!
The Articles I've read say These (Swamp Coolers) work best in 'A Low Humidity'. Like back East
It also states to open Windows & Doors For Air Flow.
Hum...When it's 100 outside I'm not opening my Windows.
I have Med. Humidity at 65.
Another Article recommends 'A de- Humidafier Unit.
Taking from that ...We will have a 'Room Fan' to move the Air around.
And a small Unit.
Radio UV Meters!
v
Pre-Fan/System
A
@
Folks throw these away all the time.
Find them save $50
Drill a Hole in the sides. Cut hole with handheld Electric Jigsaw. (Don't Fuck up)
A
Racks between layers of Ice for Air Flow
ICE
V
Ice Packs
@
V
Copper Pipes v
/////
Racks >
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Water
Racks all the way up to the top.
With Air space in between the Racks, all the Air would have more Ice contact.
A 'Pre - Fan ' USB 2.5 W
Is an extra...If you have one ... won't hurt.
*
Turbro Main
Ice Packs, Cubes
Ice Block
=
https://www.girard-perregaux.com/row_en/81060-41-3071-1cx.html
USB Fan
ICE
I'm looking to use this not so much on a Hot day ... but on that HOT NIGHT ... When the Room is 90 degrees ... With one treatment, hopeing
to bring the Room down 20 degrees to 70. It would take a long time for the Temp. to come up again.
Maybe no more than 4 bags of Ice total. ( * See Ice Pks.)
Start with putting the Turbro Fan on LOW Setting and the Valve Closed so the Air has more contact time with the Ice in the Pre-cooler . Then turn the Fan to Med. or High and open the Valve. Thinking this needs to be done often FOR BEST RESULTS.
@
///////
@
*
With more thought on this ... The Weather forecast says Triple Digits up and down California for the week. ok ... you put 6 (or more) of these in the Freezer. Then 3 (or more) in each Unit.
They work better than Ice. And can be reused.
Start with Ice & Frozen Copper Pipes, then upgrade to these.
Welcome
Main Cooler
120 V
Pre-Cooler
>COOL AIR >
> > WARM AIR > >
.
Hi Power / Low Watt
Pre-Cooler
CEILING > WARM AIR (Rises)
That leaves the Airway pipes.
Maybe 2-3 Inch PVC ...
Able to unscrew them.
Ice Packs
This simple Swamp Cooler 'kind of works' ... but has trouble with a 90 Degree Room.
So were makeng better.
The X - 217 Swamp Cooler
Copper Pipes in the Units > Once Cold, Stays cool without melting staying in contact with the Ice.
You could Pre-Freeze Pipe with Ice in them.
Or empty Beer Cans with Frozen Water in them.
This would be your Internal Radiator.
Pre
Pre-Fan/System
PRE-COOLER
TURBRO FAN
@
We don't any moisture in here.
The cut Copper Pipes with Frozen Water in them with Corks on the ends
*
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
COLD AIR
A
190 CFM
@ 18 Watts
Pre-Fan with System
@
Cooler Air to Main Cooler >
COOLER AIR
*
Main Fan
RACKS >
ICE
You could start with any small fan then upgrade to this one. (Only 18 Watts!)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . .
Celing > > > > >
WARM AIR >>>
Packs Ice Cubes
Ice Block
*
FLOOR > COOL AIR (Sinks)
.
MAIN COOLER
Hot Air >>>
>
@